How to Stop Goldendoodle Puppy Biting: My Success with Charlie
Looking for the specific tools I use with Charlie? Check out my Master Gear Page for my top-rated Goldendoodle supplies, from grooming tools to training crates.
If there is one thing that takes the "cute" out of a puppy real fast, it’s those razor-sharp needle teeth. When I brought Charlie home, he was a classic "land shark." Whether I was walking across the kitchen or trying to sit on the couch, Charlie was right there, nipping at my heels and tugging on my sleeves.
As a professional breeder, I know this behavior is 100% natural, but as a trainer, I also know that if you don't address it at 13 weeks, you’ll have a much bigger problem at 6 months. Here is the exact strategy I used to teach Charlie that "people are not chew toys."
Why They Bite (It’s Not Aggression)
The first thing you have to understand is that puppies like Charlie use their mouths to explore the world. Since they don’t have hands, they "grab" things with their teeth to see what they are.
Goldendoodles are also a mouthy breed by nature (they are part Retriever, after all!). For Charlie, nipping was his way of saying, "Hey, look at me! Let's play!" The problem is, if you yelp or pull away quickly, it actually makes the "game" more fun for them.
My Three-Step "Anti-Nip" Method
I used a consistent three-step process every single time Charlie’s teeth touched my skin or clothes:
The "No-Marker" and Freeze: The second I felt teeth, I gave a firm, calm "No" and completely stopped moving. No eye contact, no pushing him away, and no talking. Movement is what triggers their prey drive.
The Redirect: I then offered a high-value chew toy (I’ve listed the ones Charlie loves most on my Gear Page). I want him to know: "You can't chew me, but you CAN chew this."
The Time-Out: If Charlie was too "revved up" to redirect, I simply walked out of the Puppy Zone and stood behind the gate for 30 seconds. This taught him that biting makes the "source of fun" (me) disappear.
Managing the Environment
Most nipping happens when a puppy is over-tired or over-stimulated. If Charlie started "sharking" more than usual, it was usually a sign he needed an enforced nap. I’d put him in his crate with a safe chew, and 9 times out of 10, he’d be asleep in minutes.
I also made sure I wasn't wearing loose, flappy pants or long sleeves during our training sessions. Why make it harder for him to succeed? I’ve linked the specific sturdy playpens and gates I used to manage Charlie's space on my Gear Page—these are essential for preventing "nipping ambushes" in the hallway.
The Long-Term Solution
Teaching a puppy to stop biting takes time and extreme consistency. You can't let it slide one day because it's "cute" and then get mad the next.
If you feel like you’ve tried everything and your pup is still treating your ankles like a snack, you’re probably missing the "impulse control" piece of the puzzle. I’ve dedicated an entire section of my Puppy Foundations module in the Goldendoodle Academy to solving nipping and biting. For $45, you get the video demonstrations of exactly how I handled Charlie so you can copy my movements and get the same results.
Once you've mastered the nipping, move on to my secret weapon for focus: The 'Place' Command.
Final Thoughts
Charlie is 13 weeks old now, and he rarely ever mouthy with me anymore. He’s learned that calm behavior gets him attention, while nipping gets him nothing. Stay patient, keep your toys handy, and remember: this phase is temporary as long as you stay consistent.