Stop Puppy Pulling: How I Taught Charlie to Follow Leash Pressure
Looking for the specific tools I use with Charlie? Check out my Master Gear Page for my top-rated Goldendoodle supplies, from grooming tools to training crates.
One of the most frustrating parts of puppy ownership is the dreaded "pulling." When I first started taking Charlie out for walks, his first instinct was to bolt to the end of the leash to sniff every blade of grass. If I had allowed him to keep pulling, he’d be learning that "tension on the neck = I get where I want to go."
As a trainer, I don't use "heeling" as the first step. Instead, I teach Leash Pressure. This is the fundamental language of the leash. Once Charlie understood what pressure meant, the pulling stopped almost overnight. Here is how I taught my 13-week-old Mini Goldendoodle to follow my lead.
What is Leash Pressure?
Think of leash pressure like a polite tap on the shoulder. When the leash gets tight, it creates "pressure." My goal was to teach Charlie that the only way to make that pressure go away was to move toward me, not away from me.
Most owners make the mistake of pulling back. If the dog pulls forward, the owner pulls back. This triggers the "opposition reflex"—a dog's natural instinct to pull against whatever is pulling them. To stop the pulling, you have to break that reflex.
The "Pressure-Release" Drill
I started this in my living room before we ever went outside. Here is the professional method:
Apply Gentle Pressure: I stood still and gently pulled the leash to the side. I didn't jerk it; I just held steady tension.
Wait for the Move: Charlie’s first instinct was to lean away. I stayed calm and held the tension. The second he took one tiny step toward me, the leash went slack.
The Reward: As soon as the leash went loose, I gave him a high-value treat.
Charlie quickly learned: "When I feel the leash get tight, if I move toward my human, the pressure disappears and I get a cookie."
Choosing the Right Gear
You cannot train a puppy effectively on a retractable leash or a cheap, thin harness that encourages them to lean their weight forward. As a breeder, I am very specific about what touches Charlie’s neck and chest.
For training sessions, I use a high-quality 6-foot nylon leash and a specific front-clip harness that helps redirect his momentum without hurting him. I’ve linked my exact "Walking Kit"—the same one I recommend to all my puppy buyers—on my Gear Page. Having the right tools makes the "language" of the leash much clearer to the dog.
The "Be a Tree" Rule
Once we moved into the driveway, I followed one strict rule: If the leash is tight, we don't move. If Charlie pulled toward a leaf, I became a tree. I stood perfectly still until he looked back at me or took a step toward me to loosen the leash. Only then did we move forward again.
It takes patience, but it teaches the puppy that they control the movement of the walk by keeping the leash loose.
Master the Walk
Leash walking is one of the hardest things to teach because the world is so distracting for a Mini Goldendoodle. If you’re tired of being dragged down the sidewalk, you need a visual guide on how to handle the leash.
I’ve filmed a full tutorial on leash pressure and "Follow the Leader" drills inside the Puppy Foundations module of my Goldendoodle Academy. For $45, I show you exactly how to hold the leash and how to time your rewards so Charlie (or your pup) learns to love walking right by your side.
Proper walking is great, but a routine is nothing without a solid Goldendoodle Potty Training Schedule.
Final Thoughts
A walk should be a bonding experience, not a workout for your arms. By teaching Charlie to respect leash pressure at 13 weeks, I’m ensuring that our future hikes and city walks will be stress-free. Take it slow, be consistent, and never move forward on a tight leash!